Friday, July 8

Friday was our day off from classes and lectures. Some friends and I went to the “lake”--- which is actually a man made water hole a bus ride away from our hotel. It was lined with bars and restaurants but also had a wide variety of activities like paddle boats, bungee jumping, rollerblading, etc. It was so many things mixed into one--- beach, amusement park, and dining. 

The beach was a huge relief. Belgrade the past couple days has been teetering 100 degrees F, and the sun is relentlessly strong. The heat is pretty exhausting, coupled with long walks sightseeing/getting around the city, spotty night's sleep (again due to heat, street noise, early sunny mornings), etc. Here's a picture's view from my room. Nothing special, but it's an idea of where I am and what I've been seeing. 

Day 6

Our guest lecture on Thursday was more informative and inspiring when we met with the Zoran Djindjic Foundation. The foundation was founded in 2003 to commemorate the life and career of Zoran Djindjic, the former prime minister of Serbia. Djindjic was assassinated but his legacy lives on through the work of the foundation in where they privide interniships around Europe for exceptional Serbian students. This embodies the life and career of Djindjic because of his modern ideologies, work with youth, Western education, and overall inspriring charisma as many of the people that knew him would describe him. Djinidjic is a Serbian “epitome of democracy” for these reasons, plus he's very popular because many consider him the mastermind behind the arrest of Milosevic the former president and accused war criminal of Serbia. Djinidjic was in office for less than three years, but is fondly remembered as a source of political hope for Belgrade and Serbia.

(Here's the fund's website for more information: http://www.fond-djindjic.org/)

Thursday was also nice because we went out to  “family dinner” in Zemen, near the water. The entire group, even teachers, went out for a beautiful abundant meal with live music. The meal was bountiful and absolutely delicious. It started with bread naturally, then went to an assortment of salads, a large antipasta, fried olives, and mushrooms. Those were only the appetizers. Platters of fish with potatoes and spinach followed, then a large plate of assorted meats. The meal ended with a choice of dessert--- your choice of apple pie, chocolate cake, ice cream, or cheesecake. I forgot to say, but in Serbia, when feed a table one plate is brought out with food and the entire table shares it. It’s interesting because it’s like a full meal version of tapas.

 

Many of the things in Serbia remind me of many cultures, mixed with a certain characteristic all its own. I shared this idea with a friend I made later that evening. After dinner, the crew and I searched for the very popular clubs and bars that line the river. These clubs are usually on barges or large boats and have always seemed like a lot of fun. Interestingly, we stumbled onto one that looked extra glamorous and a little out of our league. It turned out to be the reception for Ms. Serbia, the newly crowned queen. No one seemed to mind we were there, and there was an open bar so naturally we stayed. We did get some strange looks but the queen was friendly enough to take pictures and like I said I made a few friends on the ship. I'm going to call him Rocky, because I didn't learn how to spell his name and that's what he allowed me to call him. He works in Rome but is originally from Serbia. We had a lovely conversation about the charms of Belgrade, and Serbia as a whole. We both agreed that although it shares similarities with other major European cities, there's an untouchable inexpressible characteristic that truly sets it apart. The charisma and heart of Serbia can truly be felt by anyone who comes here, and I assume that's why so many people have stayed and survived the clamorous history.

On the ship, I had my second experience with rakija. Rakija is an alcohol, very much like vodka but fermented with different types of fruit. My first experience with rakija was at a hookah bar with friends here, the first day. With all due respect, it was kind of disgusting. It was extremely strong with barely noticeable notes of apricot. It really put some hair on your chest, the smell itself burned your stomach. But! Happily, the rakija on for Miss Serbia was exceptional. It was smooth with a  plum aftertaste, and I loved it. Other drinks here are delicious as well. The most popular Serbian beers are Lav and Jelen. I like both of the a lot. Earlier in the night, two friends and I shared some Serbian wine. It was a Cabernet Sauvignon and accompanied the meal wonderfully.

Day 3

 In the afternoon, we had a meeting with BE92, a Serbian radio/tv station that has basically been involved with every major current event in former Yugoslavia’s modern history. The news channel was built from scratch and originally was only a radio station. They are heavily involved with Serbia’s major controversial affairs. Unfortunately, not much was discussed in the lecture by the station’s director. He mostly gave us the business end of things, but with out questions at the end we were able to learn a few things about the past political situation in former Yugoslavia. The director also informed us a bit about New Belgrade, where the station is located. It's considered the up and coming part of Belgrade, and much development has taken place there within the past decade. Unfortunately, since the recent economic collapse it's suffering. It has some of the best apartment complexes and housing, and they are all emptying out. He has faith in the economic turnaround though.

Today we had our first day of class, discussing a Huntington’s “Clash of Civilizations” and the many disputes around it. Our classes are held on the 16th floor of the "Belgrade Lady", a large skyscraper close to our hotel. I have no idea why they call it that but our classroom is provided to us by an independent Serbian University. It's quite amazing that the school is independent from the government. BE92 is actually one of its sponsors. 

Interestingly, after knowing of BE92 and its huge influence in the history of the Balkans we told one of our new local friends, Lazar, a waiter at one of our favorite restaurants, about our trip and he said BE92 is now heavily Americanized and not as respected as it once was. As government funding is cut and fundraising is difficult, that makes sense that BE92 has taken up some of Western ideals or whatever may be "popular" such as MTV, cartoons, political perspectives etc. Lazar is a really interesting guy. He's one of the few people here who talk openly and comfortably with us. His English is not so good, so we struggle at times but he's persistent and curious about America as well. He's very open about not being a fan of Croats, the issues in Kosovo, Albanians, but what he does like is blue eyes. As I'm a waitress back home, we talk about the different wages and living expenses expected of us. I make in two days what he makes in a month. Next time I see him, I want to ask him about rent, healthcare, and other major expenses in Serbia and how they relate to America. 

Day 2

So! I've been doing a lot here in Belgrade, between sight seeing, classes, guest lecturers, soaking up the city, nightlife, readings, and trying to get enough sleep I can't believe it's been only six days since leaving the USA. Each day is filled with so much I'll try to blog my experiences as coherently and forwardly as possible. Our first full day here was a favorite of mine. My day started with breakfast at the hotel where they offer bread, coffee, cereal, cheese, juice, water, and meat. My gooooodness, so much meat. That really goes for every Serbian meal I've experienced here... "vegetarian" isn't much of an option and meat usually consists of 3/4 of the meal. As a vegetarian I get by though and have no complaints. After breakfast we all met up to see the Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Sava and the National Library. The original National Library was bombed during WWII and a new was opened in 1947. The church was built in 1935, and the interior is still being built. The outside is beautiful and impressive, it being the largest Serbian Orthodox Cathedral in Europe. 

St. Sava is Serbia’s patron saint and its influence is seen largely around the city. Four hundred years after his death St. Sava’s bones were burnt on the site in where the church now sits. Originally a huge spiritual, violent, and cultural offense it is now seen somewhat positively as his ashes are now spread and throughout Belgrade.

 Continuing our tour through Belgrade, we saw Serbia’s ministries of defense. Half the buildings are modern and the other half are from around World War II. In 1999, one the ministry of Defense was bombed by the US and has yet to be torn down or rebuilt. The original stair-like architectural design of the building was inspired by the Bosnian mountains where guerilla warfare against Nazis, traitors, etc. took place. The ruins have yet to be torn down or remodeled because of political disagreements and financial reasons. 

Making the way through the city and seeing many things, the largest and most beautiful sightseeing was at the Belgrade Fortress known as Kalemegdan, meaning the Great Duel. This fortress was built by the Celts (3^rd c.b.c) then later the Illyrians, Romans, Serbs, Hungarians, Byzantines, Austrians and Turks. It passed through so many hands because it was extremely strategically important as it lays on the convergence of two rivers, the Sava and Danube. The island created by the Sava and Danube is known as the Great War Island due to its strategic importance and the many wars and battles its has seen. From the fortress you can see one of the four the Hungarian towers that mark the borders of the Hungarian Empire. 

I really enjoyed the rivers, not only because I love the water and the bucolic scenery that accompanies it, but these particular rivers remind me of one of my favorite paintings by Thomas Cole "View from Mount Holyoke Northampton Massachusetts, After a Thunderstorm, the Oxbow". In both scenes, the rivers bend and snake through the landscape charging the composition with serene energy. This is just one of the ways I've brought together my studies in America to my studies in the Balkans. Through this dialogue, I want to try to connect these worlds and remind myself the they are both unique but not altogether different.

After the fortress we found a nearby place to have lunch. There I had my first experience paying for a bathroom. It was really confusing and I had to ask my TA if it was normal or if this little old lady in front of the bathroom is trying to rip me off. It only cost 10 dinar, which equals about ten cents. I was tempted to ask if it costs more to go number two, but I have no idea how to say that in Serbian. 

After lunch and an afternoon coffee in the philosopher’s pavilion  we met with the Catholic bishop. Our purpose on meeting with him was to better understand the tumultuous history of the warring religions in the Balkans: Catholicism and Serbian Orthodox. Between the two religions, both parties have expierenced a lot of violence and tension and the archbishop now, is trying to start a dialogue and culture of understanding to ease the pain of a very complex history. The entire cathedral is 

decorated to convey this message. For instance, the doors are decorated with two "lungs"--- one representing the Catholic faith and saying "Pax" in the Latin alphabet, and the other representing Serbian Orthodoxy and it saying "Peace" in Cyrillic. The message being that the nation needs both lungs to breathe and provide its people with faith, peace, love and understanding. Another mural in the church represented the sisters Elizabeth and the Virgin Mary with their sons St. John the Baptist and Jesus Christ respectively, reaching out to each other to speak. This step towards touch and conversation, as the bishop said, represented the first step we must all be brave enough to take in order to open up the pathways of conversation. With his lectures and answers to our questions, it seems that, although a slow process the dialogue is possible and even successful in some ways between the two religions.

Day 1

It's been a couple days here in Belgrade, Serbia. We arrived around noon on Sunday after an entire day of flights, shuttles, busses, and airline food. Thankfully, it all went very smoothly which is new for me. I met my group in Logan Airport flew Lufthansa to Munich, then to Belgrade. After meeting up with our TA Mladen, our bus drivers/tour guides Dragon et Dragon, and Professor Sullivan we were allowed to settle in tot eh luxurious Hotel Slavija and explore the city a bit.

I had some pre-concieved notions about Belgrade before I came. I imagined a European city trapped in a ceratin age, pock marked with neglected architecture, evidence of extreme violence, and living monuments to a once war-torn country. I also imagined a lot of charm and European ideals thriving and pulsating through the streets with strong intelligent citizens strolling, bustling, and weaving through the streets living their everyday life. I wasn't wrong. Belgrade is a unique city with a unique history and you can see and feel that in everything you see. On one hand, with the many cafes, restaurants, fountains, parks, bookstores, and small shops it looks like a street in Madrid or Florence but as imagined there is evidence of a tumultuous past and the poverty, pain, and struggle that accompanies it.

Here's a photo of me and part of my group (about 1/4) during our first day casually touring the city. As you can see the beauty of the city far exceeds the unpleasant which I romantically interpret as hope, peace, and success for the future of Belgrade. With this blog, I hope to share with you what I see in the Balkans and also try my best to explain the complex history of this part of the world as I humbly see it.

The Beginning and the End

I've just woken up--- had some coffee and started this blog. I leave for Belgrade tomorrow with a dozen or so of my Northeastern peers to study political science, culture, and whatever else comes our way. For me this is the beginning of a small adventure and the end of a big one. These credits, classes, dialogue (however you'd like to put it) finish my collegiate career at Northeastern University thus making it a very fun, exciting, and bittersweet event. My friend Charlie who went on this dialogue last year asked me last night if I was "nervous-excited" or "excited-nervous" and as of right now I consider myself the latter. I've calmed my nerves by preparing the last few weeks. Between reading, packing, collecting any American commodities I might need or want during these five weeks--- I think I feel okay. Definitely excited. Definitely nervous. Not only for the trip, but how everything will be different afterwards. Let's see what happens!